An Internet design for making a small popularized table-top HDTV antenna is called a "coat-hanger" or "cat-whisker" type. The one described in this article is patterned after it, although it is modified and larger,
Instead of using coat-hangers or expensive solid copper wire to make it, this larger one uses cheap one-inch strips of thin sheet-aluminum instead. These strips will pickup TV signals well. After all, most TV antennas are made of aluminum.
Heavy Duty Drill
Parts (from discount hardware/electronics stores)
Wood board: one 1x3-inch x 6-feet (); scrap works well. Step-flashing panels or equivalent: seven 8x8-inches, hin aluminum (.60 each) Solid aluminum wire or similar: two 6-feet lengths, 12-14-gage () Screws: 26 of size 8x3/4-inch, wide-head () Washers: 26 of size 1/2-inch-OD (.50) Balun: one simple male cable connector having two extending wires with spade tips (.50) Reflectors: two pieces of heavy cardboard, 2x3-feet each, having one side covered with aluminum foil folded around their edges (). Note: light metal cage or wire-mesh also works for reflectors. Staples or screws: small ones for attaching the reflectors to the back side of the antenna board. Coaxial TV cable: enough to connect the antenna to the TV(s) -25
Tools
Measuring tape and pencil Heavy-duty shop scissors Wire cutter/stripper Electric drill and bits Screwdrivers Pliers Hammer
How to make it
This antenna is divided into two identical parts whose combined receptions are brought to the balun. Each half looks like a row of miniature rabbit-ears (V's) attached to the rims of the board.
1. On the flat side of the board, place a pencil mark 2-inches from each end of it. Between these two marks, make 11 more marks evenly spaced to give a total of 13 evenly spaced ones about 5.7-inches apart.
2. At these marks 5/8-inches from the upper and lower rims of the board, drill 3/16-inch screw holes. This process makes two 13-hole rows along the upper and lower rims of the flat side.
3. With the scissors, cut each aluminum flash panel into eight 1-inch-wide strips for a total of 56 strips 8-inches long. 52 of them will go into the antenna; four are spares.
4. With two of the strips, form V-shape by overlapping the lower tips. Drill a 1/4-inch hole through the center of the overlap.
5. With a screw & washer, attach the V-overlap to the board at one of the drill holes, but not tightened all the way down. At the top of the V, allow a center-to-center three-inch gap as shown in reference-1 below.
6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 with the remaining 50 strips and 25 drill holes.
7. At the screw sites of each row of V's, insert one 6-foot length of the solid wire beneath these overlapping strips, and then tighten the screws/washers down tightly upon it while maintaining a 3-inch gap at the top of the V's.
8. If necessary, reshape the strips so they are fairly straight.
9. Slightly loosen the two screws of the middle set (of each row), and attach one spade of the balun to each one tightly.
10. Lengthwise, mount the two aluminum covered reflectors evenly to the backside of the board facing the strips.
11. In the attic, mount the antenna vertically or horizontally as space allows, the V-rows facing the broadcasting stations sought.
12. Attach the cable to the antenna, and run it to the TV.
Discussion
This reflector-backed antenna can be made larger or smaller than the one described here as needed. It will pick up most of the UHF channels well (those above channel-13), depending on their individual broadcasting strengths.
Also, for stronger all-around reception still, it can be connected to an older traditional VHF aluminum antenna that might already be installed in the attic from years past (for channels-13 and below). For more information on this homemade antenna design, see these websites.
Christmas Sales DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit 201
Dec 13, 2011 08:24:15
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